By Sacheverell Sitwell
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PRELUDIO with the local variant of the^^H^//e or lily-monuments of Naples; and churches, as well, with most curious grotesque caryatids, in some cases standing on each other's heads; bearded heads, garlanded and ending in stone flourishes like a garden term, and on top of brackets held up on their heads, seated figures, or bearded dwarfs usurping the place of a column and supporting the capitals on their own heads. Again, as at Galatina and Galatone, these are without the sophistications of the Leccese buildings, and indeed more resembling Mexican country churches, or those on the Altiplano of Peru; in fact, entirely disorientated, difficult to date, and from drawings or photographs impossible to place geographically, least of all, perhaps, to any part of Italy.
The belfries to some of the Modican and Ragusan church towers are surely of this parentage and it is difficult to compare them with anything that is Italian. The three-storeyed frontispiece in question rises froin a pair of wings of strongly in the air at - San Giorgio Grande, San Giovanni, and San Pietro - in Modica; Ragusa Superiore has the Duomo of San Giovanni on a terrace above the town; and Ragusa Inferiore the church of San Giorgio, five of them in all, and ail, I beheve I am correct in saying, at the * There are, as I remember, three churches top of stone staircases.
Piazza Armerina, are far away enough to qualify for a local sub-style of their own. Other small towns in that vicinity, like Buscemi, must doubtless have fine buildings, but particular attention should be drawn to Grammichele, post-earthquake built and laid out with radiating streets on the pattern of a spider's web, but a spider's web constructed into a hexagonal design. The inere ground plan of Grammichele is an intriguing delight to look at. One of its churches, of date 1770 put obligingly beneath its cornice, has a trophy over that of the crossed keys flanked by cornucopias that are spilling out what can be nothing other than ripe oranges.
Baroque and Rococo by Sacheverell Sitwell
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